FAQ
Cosmetic contract manufacturing — answered.
What MOQ really means, why stability testing takes 12 weeks, who owns the formula after development, and the rest of the questions brand owners ask before signing a contract manufacturer.
Getting started
Where to start, and what's actually different about a chemist-led lab.
What is a cosmetic contract manufacturer?
A cosmetic contract manufacturer makes finished beauty and personal care products on behalf of a brand. The brand owns the recipe, the trademark, and the customer relationship; the manufacturer formulates, scales, fills, and packages the product. Formula 117 is a chemist-founded contract manufacturer in Chicago, IL — the same degreed cosmetic chemist who develops your formula runs the production batch, so nothing gets lost in the handoff between formulation and manufacturing.
How is a chemist-led lab different from a typical contract manufacturer?
Most contract manufacturers run on operations staff and lab technicians; formulation decisions go to a separate department or get outsourced. At Formula 117, a degreed cosmetic chemist with 10+ years across major retail and indie beauty brands sits at the bench, runs stability, and signs off on production. That collapses the typical timeline by removing the back-and-forth between brand, manufacturer, and outside formulator. It also removes the most common scale-up failure mode: a formula that worked on a hot plate but breaks on a 200-gallon kettle.
Do I need to have a formula already?
No. Formula 117 offers four manufacturing paths depending on where you are. If you have nothing but an idea, custom formula development builds the product from scratch. If you have a competitor product you want to match or improve, reverse engineering decodes and rebuilds it. If you already have a finished, tested formula, BYOF (bring your own formula) skips development and goes straight to scale-up. If you want to launch fast on a proven recipe, private label uses the in-house formula library.
Who is Formula 117 a good fit for?
Indie beauty founders launching their first SKU, emerging brands scaling from kitchen-batch to real production, and established brands looking to switch from a generalist manufacturer to a chemist-led one. The boutique model fits brands that need formulation expertise and willingness to iterate — not brands looking for the cheapest possible per-unit price at 100,000-unit volume.
MOQ & pricing
What MOQ 500 means, and what manufacturing actually costs.
What is the minimum order quantity?
MOQ is 500 units across all four service paths — custom development, reverse engineering, BYOF, and private label. That's deliberately low for a manufacturer at this level of formulation depth. Most labs running custom formulations require 2,500–10,000 units; most low-MOQ shops can't develop a custom formula from scratch. Formula 117 sits in the gap.
How much does cosmetic contract manufacturing cost?
Manufacturing runs $2–$3+ per unit at 2,500–5,000 units, with the per-unit cost depending on formula complexity, fill format, and packaging. Custom formula development is quoted per project rather than per unit — there's no fixed price because the work itself varies. Pricing details and lead-time breakdowns are on the how-it-works page.
Are there fees outside of the per-unit price?
Custom and reverse-engineering paths have a development fee that covers bench formulation and stability testing. Tooling, custom packaging, regulatory documentation, and label printing are billed separately because they vary by project. The brief intake captures everything needed to scope a real quote rather than a placeholder number.
Process & timelines
How long things take, and why some phases can't be compressed.
How long does it take to manufacture a cosmetic product?
Depends on the path. Custom formula development end-to-end runs 19–30 weeks (concept → formulation → 12-week stability testing → production). Reverse engineering runs 21–29 weeks. BYOF runs 8–10 weeks because formulation is already done. Private label runs 4–6 weeks because the formula is already validated and shelf-stable. Stability testing is the longest single phase in custom and reverse-engineering paths and is non-negotiable for retail-grade products.
Why does stability testing take 12 weeks?
Stability testing exposes the formula to accelerated and real-time conditions — heat, cold, freeze/thaw cycles, light, and time — to confirm the product won't separate, change color, lose efficacy, or fail microbial preservation over its shelf life. Twelve weeks is the standard accelerated protocol, equivalent to roughly 18–24 months on shelf. Skipping it is how brands end up with returns, recalls, or a hero SKU that goes off in month four.
Can the timeline be compressed?
BYOF and private label are already compressed because they skip development. For custom and reverse-engineering paths, the formulation phase can sometimes run faster when the brief is tight and the brand is decisive on direction; stability testing cannot be ethically shortened for a retail product. Be wary of any manufacturer who claims they can deliver a custom formula at retail quality in under three months.
IP & formula ownership
Who owns the formula, and what reverse engineering actually means.
Do I own the formula after development?
Yes. With custom formula development and reverse engineering, the brand owns the formula outright at project completion — including the right to manufacture it elsewhere. There's no license, no royalty, and no clause that locks you to Formula 117 after the project ends. Private label is the one path where the formula stays in the in-house library, because that's the entire trade-off: speed and cost in exchange for shared use of a proven recipe.
Is reverse engineering a cosmetic product legal?
Yes, when done correctly. Cosmetic formulas themselves are generally not patented; the legally protected elements are typically the trademark, trade dress, packaging design, and any specific patented ingredient technologies. Reverse engineering reads the publicly disclosed ingredient list (which the FDA requires every cosmetic to publish), tests the finished product, and builds a comparable formula that matches the performance profile without copying protected elements. Formula 117 won't recreate trademarked branding, copy patented delivery systems, or reproduce a competitor's exact ingredient ratios as a copy-paste — those are different work, and the lab declines them.
What about my formula's confidentiality?
Every project runs under NDA. The chemist who works on your formula is the same person from start to finish; nothing gets passed to outside formulators, and nothing from your project is added to the private-label library without explicit written agreement. BYOF projects in particular are treated as fully proprietary — the formula stays the brand's, and Formula 117 manufactures only what's contracted.
Regulatory & quality
Standards, certifications, and where products are made.
Are products manufactured to FDA standards?
Yes. Formula 117 operates to cosmetic GMP (Good Manufacturing Practice) guidelines and the requirements of the Modernization of Cosmetics Regulation Act (MoCRA), which now governs cosmetics in the US. That includes facility registration, product listing, safety substantiation, and adverse-event reporting infrastructure. The lab is set up so brands can provide their distributors and retailers with the documentation they ask for.
Do you handle clean-beauty, fragrance-free, or specific-actives requirements?
Yes — these are formulation parameters, not separate services. A brief can specify EWG-clean ingredient lists, sulfate/paraben/phthalate exclusions, fragrance-free, vegan, cruelty-free, or active-system requirements (retinoids, AHA/BHA/PHA blends, peptides, ferments, etc.). The chemist-founded model means these constraints get translated into actual formulation choices, not promised on a sell sheet and ignored at the bench.
Where are products manufactured?
Chicago, Illinois. Every Formula 117 service runs through the domestic facility — not drop-shipped from a warehouse, not offshored, not white-labeled to a third party. Brand owners are welcome to visit by appointment, see the line, and meet the chemist on the same trip. Domestic manufacturing also matters for supply-chain resilience, faster reorder cycles, and US/Canada retailer requirements.
Working together
How a project starts, and what the first 72 hours look like.
How do I start a project?
The fastest way is the project brief — a structured intake that walks through the four service paths, gathers everything the chemist needs to scope your project, and lands in the inbox with enough context to skip the first three rounds of email. Brands typically hear back within 48–72 hours. If the project is still early-stage and you'd rather just ask a question first, the contact page has a quick-message form too.
Can I visit the lab?
Yes — by appointment. Brand visits typically happen during pilot batch approval or a kickoff meeting for a custom development project. The lab is in Chicago, IL, and the appointment-only model exists because the chemist runs the bench, the line, and the visit. There's no separate sales team to host walk-ins.
What happens after I submit a brief?
The chemist reviews your brief personally — not a sales-team intake. Within 48–72 hours, you'll get a reply with either follow-up questions, a scoping conversation, or a preliminary plan depending on what the brief contains. Briefs with clear product type, fill format, MOQ target, retail context, and any active or claim requirements come back faster because there's less round-tripping.
Keep reading
Specific questions live on the pages they belong to.
Ready to start production?
Send your project details. You'll hear back within 48–72 hours with next steps.
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